What is Betta Fungal Infection?

Fungi are always present in our aquariums, but they generally stay harmless. However, they become an issue when a fish’s immune system weakens due to injury, stress, or poor water quality. If your betta gets hurt or stressed, these fungi can cause infections.

Fungal infections in bettas are generally caused by common fungi naturally present in the water, like Saprolegnia and Achlya.

How Fungi Affect Bettas

Fungal infections target areas where injury is more likely. These areas are generally large, flowing fins, which are easy to injure. These injuries become the perfect entry points for fungal spores, allowing the fungi to invade the body. The infections can also harm the skin and gills. If the infection gets bad enough, it could even affect internal organs.

Unfortunately, fungal infections don’t stay in one spot. They spread quite quickly if not treated promptly, resulting in secondary infections. If you successfully catch a disease early, you should treat it before it worsens.

Symptoms

For novice betta enthusiasts, it might be difficult to identify the fungal infection in betta fish. Even intermediate betta owners get confused about how to recognize it precisely. It’s because fungal infections look similar to bacterial infections like columnaris.

• Early symptoms of betta fungal infection are fuzzy white, grey, or off-white patches on his body, gills, or around the mouth.
• The slime on the betta becomes dull, resulting in more mucus than usual.
• An affected betta might exhibit common signs of illness, such as lethargy, clamped fins, and loss of appetite, or it may rub itself against objects in the tank.
• Rapid breathing or grasping at the surface and other symptoms confirm a fungal infection.

Fungal infections in bettas must be distinguished from bacterial infections, as the treatment for each issue differs. Misunderstanding one for the other can lead to more problems. Fungal infections often appear on the gills first and have a central core with hair-like rays around it. It might actually be bacterial if the fuzz doesn’t have a core and just looks like a regular fuzz.

Causes and Risk Factors for Fungal Infections

Injuries and Abrasions

The first and far most common reason behind a betta fungal infection is injury and the cause of injury. Usually, bettas get injured by sharp decorations or other rough objects. These points can create open wounds on your betta’s body, which fungal spores can easily infect.

Betta fish can also get injured during fights with tank mates, and those wounds can become entry points for fungi.

Make sure you have no decorations with sharp edges. Don’t opt for artificial plants; choose soft silk plants and smooth rocks.

Weakened Immune System

A big reason why bettas get fungal infections is a compromised immune system. Several things lead to a weakened immune system. They include keeping bettas in small tanks, overcrowding in tanks, and aggressive tank mates. They can stress your betta and make them more susceptible to illness. A faded immune system paves the way for the spread of fungal infections.

If your betta isn’t getting a healthy, varied diet, their immune system can weaken, making it easier for them to get sick.

Pre-existing Disease

If your betta has had a previous infection, whether bacterial or fungal, it can lower their overall health and make them more likely to get an infection on top of it. For example, a bacterial infection such as fin rot damages the betta’s fins. If not treated immediately, the betta is at greater risk of suffering from a fungal infection.

Similarly, environmental triggers like poor water quality, temperature fluctuations, infrequent water changes, and overfeeding contribute more to fungal infections.

Step-by-Step Treatment Guide for Betta Fungal Infections

Isolate the Fish

Once you notice a fungal infection, the first thing you should do is isolate the fish. For that, arrange a quarantine setup, which is a small tank with all the necessary equipment, such as a sponge filter, air pump, air stone, and reliable heater. Quarantining your betta helps prevent the infection from spreading to other fish, as fungal infections are highly contagious.

If another fish in the main tank has also caught a fungal infection, keep it with the betta in the quarantine tank. If you can afford it, arrange a new hospital tank for it.

If you don’t have a hospital tank, a small plastic container or critter keeper can work well to isolate your betta during treatment. You don’t need a filter for such a small container, but ensure you maintain proper water temperature (about 78-80°F).

Ensure Water Quality

Next, you’ll need to check the water quality in your main tank. Check the water parameters: ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH levels to make sure the water is in good condition. Besides treating sick betta, which we’ll discuss in our next section—you’d also need to perform the water change in the main tank. This will remove any fungal spores floating around and improve the water quality for the remaining fish and live plants in the tank.

Perform Salt Baths

Now, it’s time for salt baths. Aquarium salt does not actually treat the fungus but slows it down until you get the proper medications. It also reduces stress on the fish and can help heal the injuries. Add 1 tablespoon of salt for every gallon of water. Keep the betta in the bath for 5-10 minutes. Remember, salt baths can be harsh on betta fish if overused.

Treat with Medications

Several medications are available to treat fungal infections. You should administer one medication at a time. If it works, that’s correct. If not, go for another medicine. Never try to dose two medications at a time. We’ll provide you with the fungal medications we have personally tested and proven effective. They are also recommended by most betta vets.

Methylene Blue

It is a common fungal medicine often used in hospital tanks to help with both fungal and bacterial infections. Never use it in the main tank, as it can stain everything: plants, decor, silicone, and certain betta mates, like snails.

Remove any charcoal from the filter, as it can absorb the medication. Start with a lighter dose to see how the betta reacts. For precise treatment, follow the dosage guidelines listed in the product box. After treatment, you’ll need to do a significant water change.

API Fungus Cure

This medication is a combination of Malachite Green and Formalin. Together, they are quite effective against Saprolegnia (true fungal infection). These will treat the fungus and also help prevent secondary bacterial infections.

Be sure not to use the API fungus medicine in the main tank, as, like the methylene blue, it can stain things. It can also be harsh on sensitive fish and invertebrates, so make sure your betta is not too sensitive before using it.

Antibiotics for Secondary Infections

A common mistake many betta owners make is ignoring the possibility of a bacterial infection alongside the fungal infection. Recall that saprolegnia is often accompanied by bacterial infections. So, it’s a good idea to add an antibiotic like Kanamycin (Kanaplex). This will prevent the bacterial infection from worsening and give the fish a better chance to heal.

Some people mention hydrogen peroxide for spot treatments, but it’s not recommended as it can be very harsh. It will break down quickly and could stress your Betta even more. Stick to more gentle treatments like anti-fungal medications instead.

Preventing Future Infections

Fungal infections are often triggered by poor water conditions or injuries. To prevent future outbreaks:

• Regular 20-30% water changes every week will help maintain water quality.
• Uneaten food can cause decay and poor water quality, contributing to fungal infections.
• Add Indian Almond Leaves, as these can help boost your betta’s immune system. However, avoid adding them while treating for fungus, as they may worsen the condition.
• Make sure the tank is at least 5 gallons for one betta. This gives them enough space to swim and stay active.
• Go for smooth, non-abrasive decorations, so your betta doesn’t get scratched or hurt.
• Always keep your tank clean. If you find it difficult to maintain your tank, opt for self-cleaning betta tanks.

Ensure the water quality is good by checking the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. The ideal numbers are:

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0 ppm

Nitrate: Less than 20 ppm

pH: Between 6.5 and 7.5