What is Betta Columnaris?

Columnaris is a serious and fast-acting bacterial infection that often affects betta fish when they are stressed or have a weakened immune system. It is caused by a type of bacteria called Flavobacterium columnare (which used to be called Flexibacter columnaris).

The bacteria attack fish by eating away their skin, fins, and gills. If not treated quickly, this causes tissue damage (necrosis) and organ failure.

Betta owners call it a few different names, like Cotton Wool Disease, Saddleback, Mouth Fungus (which is a misnomer), or even Guppy Disease. But they’re all referring to the same thing.

Once you notice the symptoms, the disease must be treated immediately; otherwise, the damage can be significant.

What Causes Columnaris?

Poor Water Quality

Columnaris loves dirty water, and poor water quality is a big reason it strikes. High levels of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates in the water make it toxic, which stresses out your fish and makes them more likely to get disease.

When the water pH level keeps changing, it can be stressful for your fish, weakening their immune system.

Keep your water clean by doing regular partial water changes (25-50%) every week. This helps reduce stress and keeps your betta happier and healthier.

Stress

Stress is a major cause of several betta diseases, and columnaris is one of the most common. Several factors lead to stress in betta fish, such as overcrowding in the tank, incompatible tank mates, sudden temperature changes, and inadequate diet.

Compromised Immune System

An already weakened immune system, likely due to incomplete disease recovery, is a major cause of columnaris in betta fish. Things that can weaken the immune system include pre-existing injuries, chronic stress, and old age.

How Columnaris Spreads

Columnaris spread in several ways.

The main cause of the disease spread is contaminated water, likely due to uncleaned equipment, leading to the spread of the bacteria.

Another way is to introduce a sick fish or plant that can bring the bacteria into your tank.

Sometimes, the bacteria can hide in the tank as spores, waiting for the right conditions to multiply and cause an infection.

Identifying Columnaris Symptoms

Columnaris is a serious disease that can hit your betta fast. Recognizing early signs is essential; addressing them promptly can prevent more serious problems down the line. A suffered betta exhibits both external and behavioral signs that can indicate the disease.

External Symptoms

White Patches: One of the most noticeable external symptoms is the appearance of white, fuzzy patches that resemble cotton. They are typically seen on the fins, tail, or body, especially around the ventral fin or tail.

Saddleback lesions: Another clear sign is saddleback lesions, a white or grey patch on the back, usually near the dorsal fin, that looks like a saddle.

Redness: Affected areas might show redness or a bleached look, especially around the face and head. This indicates that the infection is progressing and can cause tissue damage. This usually denotes the case of necrotic tissue or ulcer. It might start to look like their mouth is rotting away.

Abnormal Color Change: In severe cases, you might notice rapid breathing, gasping, or gills turning a different color. These symptoms might only be visible after the infection has gotten bad, sometimes after the betta has passed away.

Pineconing: Columnaris can sometimes lead to raised scales or pineconing, but it is not always the cause, as these symptoms may also result from other infections.

In advanced cases, you might notice the fins starting to break down or melt, indicating that the infection is worsening.

Behavioral Symptoms

Bettas show behavioral signs when any disease hits them. If you notice them along with the external symptoms discussed above, it clearly points towards the columnaris. Some common behavioral symptoms are below.

• Lethargy and less activity
• Clamped fins
• Gasping or fast gill movement
• Loss of appetite
• Rubbing or flashing against things
• Hiding more than normal

Columnaris vs. Fungal Infection

Many betta fish owners confuse columnaris with fungal infections, so it’s important to know how to differentiate between them.

Columnaris often appears as greyish-white patches that can look sharp or have distinct, clear edges, while fungal infections, on the other hand, tend to be white and fluffy, usually having softer edges.

Columnaris is extremely fast. It spreads very quickly, often leading to death within 24-72 hours if not treated immediately. Fungal infections tend to progress more slowly.

In severe cases, columnaris can sometimes produce a distinct, unpleasant odor, likely due to tissue breakdown. Fungal infections, however, are typically odorless. They don’t have the strong, decaying smell associated with bacterial infections like columnaris.

Treating Columnaris in Betta Fish

Columnaris progresses fast. If not treated immediately, it can kill your betta within 24-72 hours. So, the moment you notice symptoms, don’t wait around. Start treatment or isolation immediately. The longer you wait, the worse it can get for your betta.

Emergency Steps for Treating Columnaris

1. Isolate the Sick Fish

The first thing you need to do is isolate your sick betta. Set up a hospital tank right away. This can be a small 5-10 gallon tank with a small filter and heater. This setup helps to keep the sick fish separate from the rest of the tank, preventing the disease from spreading and reducing the need for medication in the main tank.

Moving your betta into a separate tank protects the main tank’s healthy fish and beneficial bacteria. You’ll also be able to give the sick fish the treatment it needs without harming the rest of your aquarium.

2. Perform a Large Water Change

Next, do a big water change. Change 50-75% of the water in both the main tank and the hospital tank. Make sure the new water is temperature-matched and dechlorinated to avoid further stressing your betta.

You can use Seachem Prime, a water conditioner that helps detoxify ammonia and nitrite during emergencies. This is especially important if your betta is under stress or the water quality is bad, as columnaris thrives in poor conditions.

3. Increase Aeration

Columnaris attacks the gills, making it harder for your fish to breathe. To help with this, you’ll need to increase the oxygen levels in both the hospital and the main tank. Add an air stone and pump to improve water circulation and provide more oxygen. This will help reduce any breathing difficulties your betta might have.

4. Remove Activated Carbon

Before adding any medications, it’s important to remove the activated carbon from your tank filter. Activated carbon absorbs everything, including medications, which would make your treatment ineffective. Always remove it before using any meds to ensure they work as intended.

5. Prepare for Treatment

Now that you’ve set up the isolation and done the water changes, it’s time to gather your medications and any necessary supplies. Make sure you have a liquid test kit on hand to monitor the water quality during treatment. The API Freshwater Master Test Kit is our favorite option for this purpose.

Initial Treatment with Aquarium Salt

Aquarium salt is the first line of defense for columnaris in bettas. Before going for medications, treat the fish with aquarium salt to help it regulate osmoregulation and reduce stress. Salt also assists in healing minor wounds. For a salt bath, use about 1.5 teaspoons of aquarium salt per 2 liters (0.5-gallon) of water. If you add salt to a hospital tank, use a teaspoon per gallon.

Keep the salt treatment for 3-5 days. If the infection doesn’t show improvement, move on to more targeted treatments.

Do not add salt to the tank if you have plants and snails in it.

Treatment with Medication

Medications are safe for treating columnaris, but overuse can worsen the condition. We are providing you with the suggestions we have tested and have given the best results in our case.

Kanaplex and Furan 2

These antibiotics are often used together for severe cases of columnaris. They can be used for bacterial infections like columnaris but should be a last resort if salt treatment fails.

Both Furan 2 and Kanaplex are usually dosed for a 10-gallon tank, but since you’re treating in a smaller hospital tank, you can adjust the dosage accordingly. For a 5-gallon tank, use half the recommended dose.

It’s recommended that the affected betta be treated for 10 days using both medications daily. If the infection persists after treatment, consult an expert before continuing.

Why These Medications?

Kanaplex has Kanamycin, a strong antibiotic that targets gram-negative bacteria like the one causing columnaris. It blocks the synthesis of proteins in bacteria, ultimately finishing the bacteria and preventing the infection from further spreading.

Furan 2 contains nitrofurazone, another antibiotic that fights gram-negative bacteria. It functions by preventing the bacteria from repairing its DNA, causing it to die.

When dosed together, Kanaplex treats the infection inside the body, while Furan 2 focuses on external symptoms like mouth rot and fin rot.

Alternative Treatment Options

Kanaplex might be difficult to obtain in certain countries, like the UK; therefore, you may need to seek alternative medications.

While not available in every country, Esha 2000 was recommended as an alternative to antibiotics for columnaris. Many UK fish owners recommend this treatment, although it can be confusing because it contains antibiotics despite being available over the counter. Always follow dosage instructions and monitor closely.

Another common treatment for columnaris is Waterlife Myxazin, though it may not be as effective as Kanaplex for severe cases.

Preventing Columnaris in Your Betta

After treating columnaris, take these steps to ensure your betta remains healthy and to prevent future infections.

• Ensure your tank is properly cycled and free from excess ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Performing regular water changes is crucial for maintaining a healthy environment.
• Clean the tank thoroughly. This includes disinfecting any equipment and, if necessary, replacing the filter media.
• Overcrowding your tank or placing stressed fish in unclean water can increase the risk of infections like columnaris. Make sure your bettas have ample space to thrive.
• To prevent the spread of new diseases, always quarantine new fish for at least two weeks before adding them to your main tank.
• Use an aquarium heater and a thermometer to ensure the water stays at a stable, comfortable temperature.
• Keep water parameters stable and avoid stressing your betta with sudden temperature or water changes.
• Having live plants or smooth aquarium decorations can help reduce stress and give your betta places to hide.
• Consider adding Indian almond leaves or other natural remedies to boost your betta’s immune system and reduce stress.
• Don’t overfeed your betta. Too much food can make the water dirty and encourage bacterial growth. Only feed your betta what it can eat in about 2-3 minutes, once or twice a day.