Aggression is a common trait in betta fish. This instinctual behavior is particularly prominent in male bettas due to their territorial nature. They fight with each other to establish dominance within their space, often chasing, nipping, or combating even other similarly colored finned fish. Although generally less fierce and more inclined to communal behavior, female bettas can display aggression. Due to their aggressive tendencies, it’s not advisable to house two male bettas in the same tank, even if it is spacious and has numerous hiding spots.

The ideal betta fish tank size ranges from 5 to 20 gallons and can be larger. A simple formula is to choose a tank with a volume of at least 15 liters, and preferably 20 liters. The minimum recommended tank size is 2.5 gallons, which is suitable for situations where space and budget constraints prevent getting a larger tank. The discussion on betta tank size is complex and cannot be summarized briefly. For a more in-depth look, please read our complete article.

Betta fish, or Siamese fighting fish, come in various types distinguished by their tail shapes, colors, and patterns.

Tail Types

1. Veil Tail
2. Crown Tail
3. Halfmoon
4. Delta Tail
5. Double Tail
6. Plakat
7. Rosetail

To know more betta fish types click here.

Betta fish are indigenous to Southeast Asia, particularly Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, and Indonesia, where they inhabit the intricate networks of rivers and lakes. They thrive in the slow-moving shallow waters of rice paddies, marshes, and stagnant ponds.

Click here to know all about betta fish, form history, nomenclature, and origin to normal betta behaviors.

Naming betta fish can be fun and interesting. Consider the factors such as their appearances, origins, and personality while naming your betta fish. Some cool and unique betta fish names are following.

1. Akira
2. Futura
3. Phantom
4. Franklin
5. Alpha
6. Derek
7. Betta Max
8. Ruby
9. Blue Moon
10. Rosey

To explore our top list of betta fish names based on gender, color, traits, and other factors, read the completer article.

The prettiest type of betta fish often depends upon personal preferences; however, the most voted betta for prettiness is halfmoon betta, which is known for their impressive caudal fins that flare out to a 180-degree angle, creating a striking, fan-like appearance. Other pretty bettas are crown tail and galaxy bettas.
Find out more in our separate article about betta fish types.

Betta fish thrive in a tank that mimics their natural environment and meets their specific needs. Here’s what they like:

Tank Size: Don’t keep the betta fish in any tank smaller than 3-gallon. At least arrange a 5-gallon tank, though 10 gallons or more is ideal.

Water Conditions:

• Temperature: 76–82°F (24–28°C), maintained with a heater.
• pH: 6.5–7.5, slightly acidic to neutral.
• Low water flow, as bettas have long fins and prefer calm water. Use a gentle filter or sponge filter.

Substrate and Decor:

• Smooth gravel or sand to avoid fin damage.
• Live or silk plants (like java fern, anubias, or marimo moss balls) for hiding and resting. Avoid sharp plastic plants.
• Caves, driftwood, or betta hammocks for cover and enrichment.

Lighting: Moderate lighting with a day-night cycle (8–12 hours of light). Avoid direct sunlight to prevent algae and temperature spikes.

Clean Water: Perform regular water changes (25–50% weekly for smaller tanks, less frequently for larger ones) to maintain low levels of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

Tank Mates: Bettas are territorial, so choose tank mates carefully. Small, peaceful fish, such as neon tetras or Kuhli loaches, or invertebrates like snails or shrimp, can thrive in larger tanks (15 gallons) or larger. Avoid fin-nippers or aggressive species.

Enrichment: Floating logs or leaves for surface resting, as bettas are labyrinth fish that breathe air occasionally. They also enjoy exploring varied environments.

No Mirrors: Avoid reflective surfaces or mirrors in the tank, as they can stress bettas by mimicking the appearance of another fish.

A well-maintained tank with hiding spots, stable water conditions, and minimal stress keeps bettas healthy and vibrant.

Betta fish need a tank of at least 5 gallons, a heater to keep the water warm (between 76°F and 82°F), and a gentle filter (if you want one) to help keep the water clean without creating strong currents.
Grab a water conditioner to ensure the tap water is safe, and add some silk plants and decorations for your betta to hide and swim around in.
A soft gravel or sand substrate will work fine for the bottom of the tank. Ensure the tank receives light with a regular 12-hour on/off cycle.
Use a water test kit to monitor key parameters, such as pH and ammonia levels. Don’t forget to get some high-quality betta food, such as pellets or occasional treats like bloodworms. And, of course, a little bit of patience goes a long way in keeping your betta happy and healthy!

When it comes to tank mates for your betta, you’ll want to choose fish that won’t stress them out or get into fights. Betta fish can be a bit feisty, especially the males, so you need to pick peaceful, non-aggressive fish that won’t nip at their fins. Some good options are:

1. Corydoras Catfish
2. Neon Tetras
3. Harlequin Rasboras
4. Otocinclus Catfish
5. Kuhli Loaches

A betta fish requires a minimum of a 5-gallon tank. While they can live in smaller spaces, such as bowls, it’s not ideal for them. A 5-gallon tank gives them enough room to swim around and keeps them less stressed. The bigger the tank, the better—especially if you want to add plants or decorations. Plus, a larger tank makes it easier to keep the water clean, which is important for your betta’s health!

A 10-gallon tank is even better if you can manage it!

• Room for Decorations: Bettas love to have plants, caves, and other decorations to hide in and explore. A larger tank allows you to add these items without overcrowding, and your betta will feel more at home.
• Better Water Quality: A larger tank helps keep the water cleaner for a longer period. With more space, waste doesn’t build up as quickly, making it easier for you to maintain the water quality. Less waste = less stress for your betta.
• More Stable Temperature: Bigger tanks also help maintain a stable temperature. In smaller tanks, the temperature can change rapidly, which can cause stress in your betta. A larger tank is less sensitive to sudden changes, which is better for your fish.
• Room for Tank Mates: If you ever decide to add other fish, a larger tank gives you more space to do that safely. Just remember that not all fish get along with bettas, so choose tank mates carefully.Find out more about betta fish tank size in our in-depth article.

How Much Does a Betta Fish Cost?

The cost of a betta fish can vary depending on where you buy it and its type, but here’s a general idea of what to expect:

• Basic Bettas: You can find a betta for around $20-$30 in many pet stores, such as Petco or PetSmart.
• Fancy Bettas: Some more colorful or special varieties, such as Koi Bettas or those with unique genetics, can cost between $40 and $60.
• From Breeders: If you buy from a breeder, bettas can cost $60-$100 or even more, depending on the quality and breed. Some rare bettas with specific traits may cost $150 or more.

If you’re looking for a betta, be ready to spend a little more if you want a beautiful, healthy one, especially if it’s from a breeder or a rare type. But generally, you can expect to pay between $20 – $50 for a betta.

Betta Fish Tank Accessories

Plants are a great addition to any aquarium. For bettas, they play a crucial role in its health and happiness. Plants provide oxygen, offer hiding places, absorb harmful waste, and enhance the look of the tank.
Here are some live plants that are safe for betta fish to live with.
1. Anubias
2. Java Fern
3. Java Moss
4. Hornwort
5. Amazon Sword
6. Marimo Moss Balls
7. Anacharis
8. Dwarf Water Lettuce
9. Cryptocoryne
10. Water Sprite

How to Cycle a Betta Fish Tank?

Cycling a tank is crucial for the health and well-being of your betta. The process ensures that the nitrogen cycle is established in the tank, providing a stable and safe environment for your fish. Below is a simplified guide to help you understand and perform the cycle properly.

What Does Cycling Mean?

Cycling, an aquarium hobby, refers to the process of establishing beneficial bacteria in your tank. These bacteria convert harmful substances (like ammonia) into less toxic substances (like nitrates).

It is important to ensure that your betta fish goes through this cycle, as failing to do so may result in exposure to harmful levels of ammonia and nitrites, which could be detrimental to their health.

Why Cycle Before Adding a Betta?

While it’s tempting to put your betta in the tank immediately, doing so in an uncycled tank can lead to a toxic environment. Fish stores often keep bettas in small cups, but these conditions are far from ideal. Placing your betta in a tank with improper water parameters can cause harm or even death. It’s better to wait until the tank is fully cycled to ensure your fish’s long-term health and happiness.

The Ideal Betta Tank Setup

Before starting the cycle, make sure you have the following:

• Tank Size: At least 5-gallon for a healthy, happy betta.
• Heater: Bettas are tropical fish and require stable temperatures (76-81°F or 24-27°C).
• Filter: A low-flow filter is ideal, as bettas are not strong swimmers.
• Thermometer: To monitor the water temperature.
• Substrate and Plants: Use soft silk or live plants. Bettas prefer calm, well-planted tanks.
• Floating Betta Log: A place for your betta to rest near the surface.
• Water Conditioner: To make tap water safe by removing chlorine and chloramines.

How to Cycle Your Tank Before Adding Your Betta?

1. Set Up Your Tank

Before cycling, first set up your tank with the filter, heater, and decorations. Fill it with water and add a water conditioner to make sure the water is dechlorinated. Make sure the temperature is stable before initiating the cycling process.

2. Fishless Cycling

Fishless cycling is our most recommended method of cycling the tank. This process involves adding an ammonia source to the tank to simulate the waste produced by a fish. The bacteria will consume ammonia and eventually transform it into nitrites, which will then be converted into nitrates. At this stage nitrogen cycle completes.

Add liquid ammonia to the tank to raise the ammonia level to approximately 1-2 ppm (parts per million). Regularly monitor the levels of ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite using an aquarium test kit. Over time, the ammonia should be converted into nitrites and then into nitrates.

This process typically takes 4-6 weeks. You can speed up the process by adding nitrifying bacteria to the tank. Some products, such as Seachem Stability or Tetra SafeStart, can help establish beneficial bacteria more quickly.

3. Water Testing

Test your water daily to track the progress of the cycle. Ammonia and nitrites should rise and eventually drop to zero as beneficial bacteria begin to grow and do their job. When both ammonia and nitrites reach zero parts per million (ppm) within 24 hours after dosing with ammonia, your tank is considered fully cycled.

4. Water Changes

Once the tank is cycled, perform a large water change to bring the nitrate levels down to a safe range (below 20 ppm). This will make the tank safe for your betta.

Fish-In Cycling

While not recommended for beginners, fish-in cycling involves adding your betta to the tank before it’s fully cycled. The ammonia produced by the fish’s waste will fuel the bacteria growth. However, this method can be stressful and hazardous for the fish, as ammonia levels can rise quickly, potentially harming the betta. If you choose this method, ensure that you perform frequent water changes (up to 50% daily) and use water conditioners, such as Seachem Prime, to neutralize the ammonia temporarily.

Why Fishless Cycling is Better

The fishless cycle is more controlled and safer for your betta since you don’t have to worry about toxic ammonia or nitrite levels while the cycle is in progress.

With fishless cycling, you can maintain ammonia levels at a higher concentration, which helps bacteria grow faster. The process usually takes around 4-6 weeks, while fish-in cycling can take several months.